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Tuning information

Here you can find information about our tunes.
Power depends from vehicle's technical condition. Best results can be achieved only if vehicle is in great technical condition. About power gains you can always ask via Databank or Email. About Stage1/2 and Diesel/Petrol tuning please read at the bottom of this page.


We offer almost every removal service as well. We can remove almost any ecological and other system which is not necessary for vehicle to run good. Actually, most of these systems give many problems and we solve them to get vehicle running great again. When using these services, please make sure that you have suitable diagnostic tool not for only to read&clear fault codes, but to make relevant resets to the systems and make scanlogs, read live data. Without proper equipment you might not be able to successfully remove these systems. Also, please note, that it might be illegal to drive vehicle with removed ecological systems on public roads.

DPF/FAP removal guide:

Clear fault codes. Perform DPF force regeneration (make sure that engine is in working temperature and other conditions are met for force renegeration). After regeneration, if diagnostics does not show any pending or active regeneration and in ECU there is no soot accumulation fault codes, you can flash modified file and empty DPF. However, if you are not able to do force regeneration (DPF is completely clogged and ECU does not allow), please follow these instructions:
1. Make sure all sensors related to the DPF are connected and working (in some cases sensor fault can prevent making resets correctly). EGR must be also connected.
2. Empty the DPF physically, erase all DTC stored in the ECU
3. Reset the DPF ash % value via diagnostics (if possible) or use the "Replace DPF" option (simulate new DPF installation, so vehicle thinks that new DPF is mounted)
4. Flash the DPF OFF file
5. Follow the instructions from the tuner (might need to disconnect some sensors).

Please note, on different vehicles, the reset procedure can be different. You might need to reset more components, such as oil life, differential sensor. But the main rule is that after resets vehicle must not have any active or pending regeneration (white smoke is great indication that vehicle is regenerating and resets are not success) and soot/ash levels in diagnostics should be nearly zero.

If you followed the instructions and still have problems with DPF solution, please contact tuner and provide DPF scanlog photo with parameters: soot, ash, pressure, exhaust gas temperature values, last regeneration information. Also fault codes (if there are any) with descriptions.

Adblue/SCR removal guide:

In most cases, for successful Adblue removal, the resets are mandatory as well. Please follow these instructions:
1. Refill Adblue tank
2. Reset Adblue parameters, make sure that there is no "No start in x km" warning on instrument cluster
3. Flash modified file
4. Follow the instructions from the tuner. Might need to disconnect whole SCR unit, Adblue control unit or/and NOx sensors.

Adblue removal is less complicated than DPF removal. However, the most cases, when Adblue solution fails to work, is Adblue level sensor fault. In most cases it must be working or you need to find a way to electrically bypass it and give vehicle information that Adblue level is OK. If engine is no longer starting (blocked due to low Adblue) or you are having "no start" message on instrument cluster, please do not flash modified file, it might not work.

EGR removal guide:

For removing EGR, depending on ECU type, we are using different methods to disable it. Please follow these instructions:
1. Install blanking plate and block EGR valve, so exhaust gas won't be able to enter combustion chamber in any possible way
2. Flash modified File
3. Follow instructions from the tuner. Might need to disconnect EGR valve actuator.

In some cases, when EGR is in working condition and not leaking exhaust gas, it is enough to disconnect it (do not need to install blanking plate). However, for complete removal, it is strongly recommended to install blanking plate and block EGR valve physically, especially when tuner does not give instruction to disconnect it. If EGR is not blanked, it can still recirculate exhaust gas and vehicle might have reduced performance, excessive smoke or weird exhaust sound issues. Even programmatically closed EGR valve might still leak exhaust gas and blocking it physically is the only possible way disabling it.

The most common question about EGR we receive every month is:
-You say I need to blank it. So why I should pay you doing a file, when I can blank it and it will be no longer recirculating gas? I need solution in software, that's why I am paying you.
Our answer:
-If you will just blank it without reprogramming ECU, you will get insuficient EGR flow fault code and vehicle will go to emergency mode. If you will reprogram it, but won't blank it, there is still great posibility that you will have performance issues, because exhaust gas can still enter combustion chamber, because faulty EGR has a leak (for example it is stuck open or not able to close completely).

So EGR removal, as well as DPF removal, in most cases need additional mechanical work!
If you have blanked EGR and still experiencing any problem with it, please contact tuner and explain problem.

Diesel tuning:

Stage1 tune is for customers who want to get much better performance without pushing the engine too much. Every manufacturer have put limits on Software, but actually vehicle is designed to have more power and run faster with small changes in software. On Stage1 we unlock this power by adjustments in Engine torque, Turbo pressure and minor changes in Injection system (injection duration, injection correction). Stage1 tune can give more power with slightly better fuel consumption due to less gear change and more efficient fuel usage. Of course, if you do not change your driving habits.

Stage2 tune is for customers who wants to get almost maximum performance (but still in safety lines) from the engine and do not care much about a bit bigger fuel consumption. On Stage2 tune we edit almost every map which affects the performance of vehicle: Engine torque (calculated engine torque, maximum torque, optimal engine torque, torque correction, torque request etc), Injection system (injection duration, injection timing, injection corection, fuel quantity injected, smoke limiters), Turbo pressure, Rail pressure maps. The Stage2 remap will not affect fuel consumption on cruising speed, but you might see slightly increased fuel consumption on city driving, especially if you push the accelerator harder.

Petrol tuning:

Petrol tuning however is much different thing. Here, we can't promise a customer better fuel consumption. However, Turbo petrol engines are good for tune, because with almost the same fuel consumption we can get much better performance on Stage1 remaps. On Stage2 tunes, when seeking the best performance and to keep vehicle safe, we need to make a bigger change in AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), which can lead to bigger fuel consumption. Atmospheric petrol engines are usually subject to have very small potential in tuning and only small power gain can be expected (with some exceptions).

Other information

If you need checksum correction, please always ask! Modern tuning tools calculate checksum and we send files without checksum by default. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.